The end...

Well, there is another SM on the road. The car is finished and delivered. Some issues are remaining on the peripherals like the carbs and ignition. So, some debugging to do but the engine sounds great and the smoke is gone. It will be completely gone after 3 to 5K miles.

The 20 year old LHM is out and replaced by some Kendall Galcial Blu.

The hydraulics are is great shape. So far no leaks and a pretty good cycling time.

She's up!

The ignition and carbs have to be visited soon...

Tuning up...

Closing down the engine...

Preparing to install the bottom half.

For the back cover, I've heard about two instances when an oil leak developed at this spot (Below); I made sure to had a good amount of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.


I had the heads pressure tested and machined. I have also replaced the stem seals, to be sure.

The aluminum of the block is damaged on several spots...





... I used a silicone sealer on those spots, on a top where I had a coolant leak on another engine and on the corners.

Some copper sealer on the head gaskets, since they manage to leak sometimes.

Getting there...


Some silicone sealer at the junction of the back cover and the block.




I made this little tool to turn the engine during the rebuild and to measure the torque to check if everything is OK in there.


Back in...

Replaced the gear fluid with Red Line MT90.


The surface where the O ring seats was not looking too good (Thermostat housing). Sand paper on the bench and some elbow grease...

The exhaust gave me a hard time (Muffler broken hanger).

Rings etc...

I have hooked up only what was necessary to run the engine. The engine ran very well and was very smooth, but the amount of smoke was too much for my taste...


Before reopening the engine, I have added yellow marks on the cam shafts off the "B" head which correspond to the balance of cylinder #1 on A head. The mark is pretty logical since the crankshaft turns 90 deg. from TDC of cylinder #1 to TDC of cylinder #6. So, the cam shafts turns 45 deg. When I put the engine back together, I will put cylinder #1 at TDC with the "0" showing on the primary shaft. The extra marks are just to double check the timing on the 4 cam shafts. If I miss a tooth it will be obvious.
I also kept the distributor in place to make sure cyl. #1 will ignite at the following turn.


I could notice an uneven ware on the rings. The engine ran for 20 mn or so, so the rings are not seated yet but it shows that the cylinders are not quite cylindrical. I the machinist who did the honing confirmed that they were oval but not bad enough to be re-bored (Which would be a substantial expense). To add to the problem, I removed some metal on the spring of the oil control ring, thinking it was too tight. So, no problem, I will replace the springs with new ones.


Checking the rings; the gaps were OK but some light is showing between the wall and the rings.



After removing and reopening the engine, yesterday I've changed the oil control springs on all cylinders

Water pump, hoses and engine in car...

Closing the bottom...





VW bug exhaust gasket work perfectly.


When I've repaired the manifolds, the heat distorted them.



Main seal and pilot bearing are in.


I've sanded the flywheel and applied a mat clear coat.


Clutch is in.



Before installing the engine in the car I had to make a throttle cable.


Silver brazing cable into a 5mm screw (4mm deep).




Connection of the Diravi before installing the radiator.


I've split a shock absorber rubber bushing for the radiator.


This reference is for the crankcase breather.



Cut at the right angle and removed a foot from the straight part.


This is for the hose going from the water pump to the heater core.




I've cut 6 screws to replace the anti-pollution system on the intake manifold.



All the cooling system is complete.