Reviving a 1973 Citroen SM and a Maserati 3 litre engine.

The end...

2010-12-10T05:22:00.001-08:00

Well, there is another SM on the road. The car is finished and delivered. Some issues are remaining on the peripherals like the carbs and ignition. So, some debugging to do but the engine sounds great and the smoke is gone. It will be completely gone after 3 to 5K miles.

The 20 year old LHM is out and replaced by some Kendall Galcial Blu.

The hydraulics are is great shape. So far no leaks and a pretty good cycling time.

She's up!

The ignition and carbs have to be visited soon...

Tuning up...

Closing down the engine...

2010-11-26T04:33:00.000-08:00

Preparing to install the bottom half.

For the back cover, I've heard about two instances when an oil leak developed at this spot (Below); I made sure to had a good amount of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.

I had the heads pressure tested and machined. I have also replaced the stem seals, to be sure.

The aluminum of the block is damaged on several spots...

... I used a silicone sealer on those spots, on a top where I had a coolant leak on another engine and on the corners.

Some copper sealer on the head gaskets, since they manage to leak sometimes.

Getting there...

Some silicone sealer at the junction of the back cover and the block.

I made this little tool to turn the engine during the rebuild and to measure the torque to check if everything is OK in there.

Back in...

Replaced the gear fluid with Red Line MT90.

The surface where the O ring seats was not looking too good (Thermostat housing). Sand paper on the bench and some elbow grease...

The exhaust gave me a hard time (Muffler broken hanger).

Rings etc...

2010-11-15T05:53:00.000-08:00

I have hooked up only what was necessary to run the engine. The engine ran very well and was very smooth, but the amount of smoke was too much for my taste...

Before reopening the engine, I have added yellow marks on the cam shafts off the "B" head which correspond to the balance of cylinder #1 on A head. The mark is pretty logical since the crankshaft turns 90 deg. from TDC of cylinder #1 to TDC of cylinder #6. So, the cam shafts turns 45 deg. When I put the engine back together, I will put cylinder #1 at TDC with the "0" showing on the primary shaft. The extra marks are just to double check the timing on the 4 cam shafts. If I miss a tooth it will be obvious.
I also kept the distributor in place to make sure cyl. #1 will ignite at the following turn.

I could notice an uneven ware on the rings. The engine ran for 20 mn or so, so the rings are not seated yet but it shows that the cylinders are not quite cylindrical. I the machinist who did the honing confirmed that they were oval but not bad enough to be re-bored (Which would be a substantial expense). To add to the problem, I removed some metal on the spring of the oil control ring, thinking it was too tight. So, no problem, I will replace the springs with new ones.

Checking the rings; the gaps were OK but some light is showing between the wall and the rings.

After removing and reopening the engine, yesterday I've changed the oil control springs on all cylinders

Water pump, hoses and engine in car...

2010-10-15T04:23:00.000-07:00

Closing the bottom...

VW bug exhaust gasket work perfectly.

When I've repaired the manifolds, the heat distorted them.

Main seal and pilot bearing are in.

I've sanded the flywheel and applied a mat clear coat.

Clutch is in.

Before installing the engine in the car I had to make a throttle cable.

Silver brazing cable into a 5mm screw (4mm deep).

Connection of the Diravi before installing the radiator.

I've split a shock absorber rubber bushing for the radiator.

This reference is for the crankcase breather.

Cut at the right angle and removed a foot from the straight part.

This is for the hose going from the water pump to the heater core.

I've cut 6 screws to replace the anti-pollution system on the intake manifold.

All the cooling system is complete.

2010-10-06T04:42:00.000-07:00

I did 12 marks on the oil outlet like a clock...

Using a .6mm drill bit...

I drilled a hole around 7:30 - 8 o'clock (about 15mm from the top) and...

At 2 o'clock to squirt oil on the primary chain at the leading edge of the limiter and the tensioneer (Source: Mike O).

The new and improved drive shaft for the oil pump.

The cover is on.

The water impeller is in...

The cover is on.

This side is about done.

Installed the oil seal.

I've installed the accessory shaft flange with the slot on the top and made a mark on the housing. This will give me a quick indication of the TDC on #1 at firing when the engine is closed up.

Timing (End).

2010-10-05T05:08:00.001-07:00

The A head is timed. I have marked the cam shafts with paint since I will remove them to lubricate everything.

I've cut a piece of sheet metal to install the chain. I use a magnet to catch it below the sprocket.

One cam shaft was really stuck.

Timing the B head.

marked the cam shaft with blue paint to reinstall them easily.

I used Lubriplate on the side of the valve caps and Clevite on the top.

I've measured the maximum torque to make sure everything turns freely in there (51 ft/lbs).

Checked every cylinders with the distributor on.

Covers are temporally on to protect from dust.

Valve shims and timing...

2010-09-29T04:23:00.000-07:00

I use a dial caliper for precision measuring and I double check with a digital one.

Starting to do the valve timing

Richard, "l'heureux proprietaire" (the happy owner). He did a lot of work cleaning, painting parts and helping me with some tasks.

Timing chains and A head

2010-09-24T08:25:00.000-07:00

Installed new primary timing chain.

Setting the space between the limiter and the chain.

Ready for the heads.

I use a long narrow plate to slide the chain over the sprocket, then I retrieve the end of the chain with a magnet.

Measuring the valve/cam shaft clearance. I enter the measurement in an XL spreadsheet I've designed to find out which shims I can reuse and the ones I have to buy.

Crankshaft and pistons...

2010-09-16T04:44:00.000-07:00

Checking fro the lateral play of the crank.

New bearings but with some oxidation on surface. I've used a white Gex pad, very lightly, to remove the top oxidation.

The bottom shell is ready to be installed.

Last picture before closing the bottom.

Valves, oil pump and rings

2010-09-14T05:13:00.000-07:00

Received the new exhaust valves.

I wish the engine would stay this clean...

The A head received a new intake valve also.

Leak test.

The engine is back and ready to be put back together.

A lot of crap in the oil pump!

Clean and ready to be put back together.

The B head had a tight valve guide. I've honed it gently with very fine grid until the valve was sliding correctly.

Leak test on the B head.

Started to do the rings. Long and tedious job.

One done, five to go...

The engine is apart...

2010-08-01T07:06:00.001-07:00

It took 24 hrs, heat and WD40 to get the water pump apart.

The chain needs to be replaced.

The main bearing are not bad.

The loose rod cap touched the casing.

Let's hope that the damage is not too deep.

The cylinders are good shape.

The rest of the crank is good. Two rods are twisted and need to be replaced.

Opened left bank...

2010-07-27T04:18:00.000-07:00

The clutch mechanism looks pretty good

Flywheel too...

And disk.

The cam shafts' caps look great. I was concerned that some metal shaving would get up there.

So far, the cylinders look good.

Today, I'll open the other bank.

The engine is out!

2010-07-23T03:35:00.000-07:00

Rod bushings...

2010-07-14T17:30:00.000-07:00

Ouch! Cylinder #5 bushings

Cylinder #2 bushing (Well, what's left of it).

The crank is badly damaged.

Found this in the left bank exhaust??? A lot more in the muffler.

First pics and bad news...

2010-07-14T09:33:00.000-07:00

Double safety (One stand under the suspension and one using the special (Home made) tool...

Now we have a problem...

There is a gap at the rod connector of #2 cylinder. The nut was loose; I removed it without any tool. The pink deposit on the cap of cylinder #5 is so melted bushing material.

Metal deposits on the rod and piston axle.